Postcards from the Underworld: My Favorite Beach on Ithaki

Sun, sea, solace - what more do you want from a secluded Greek beach? 

Along the winding road that connects the north with the south of the Greek island of Ithaki are three tiny coves with beaches tucked beneath the cliffs. Of the three, my favorite is called Kravoulia #2 --- but its unremarkable name belies the magnificence that awaits you when you climb down the narrow staircase to the pebbled beach. Walking across the smooth stones is like a form of foot massage, and a swim in the brisk ultramarine water wakes up all the senses. Every so often a yacht will glide past the headlands and take a turn around the cove, but many times I've had this slice of paradise all to myself. I sit here for hours, staring at the clouds dancing between the headlands, letting the sun dry the salt on my skin...and even when I take in a favorite book, The Magus, by John Fowles, 

I keep one eye on the glittering sea beyond...